Sunday, 26 April 2015

Byland Abbey and Oldstead Observatory ~ Hard Walk




Distance Covered: 5 miles   Time to complete walk: 2h 30m

Safety Tips: Be prepared for the steep parts of the walk, take a walking stick and plenty of water and take regular stops. Also be aware of the steep decline part of the walk from the observatory and make use of your walking stick.

This walk starts at the splendour of Byland Abbey and along the way passes Oldstead Observatory at its highest point on Mount Snever. The walk is challenging due to its steep incline on Mount Snever and will take around 3 hours to complete with time to explore the Abbey and the Observatory.

Getting There

From Middlesbrough head up the A19 north until you reach the A170 turning 9which will take you up Sutton Bank. Then look for the right turning to Wass or Byland Abbey and follow the road through the village of Wass past the abbey and to the car park near the Byland Abbey Inn.

 
Oldstead Observatory   
 
The Walk
 
 
Route of the Byland Abbey to Oldstead Observatory walk
 
 
After leaving the car park you can either start the walk or visit Byland Abbey first to explore its ruins and take a few photos.
 


 
Byland Abbey
 
Now head back up the road you drove on into the village of Wass. In Wass look for a lane to the left which will lead you into Abbey Bank Wood. At the top of the lane look for a gate signed Carn Farm, Observatory.
 
                                                                                                                          
 
 
Signpost to Observatory and Carn Farm
 
 
The path climbs and then leaves the wood edge to rise to a terrace. After a stile, take the L-H path, following Carn Farm. The path is a steep incline. Go straight ahead at two junctions, uphill to reach a large open space. Turn right and just before a waymarked metal gate turn left along the wood edge. Follow the path to Oldstead Observatory bearing left through the wood.
 
 
 

 


 
Oldstead Observatory
 
The Observatory was built in 1838 for astronomers and the inscription on the plaque reads:

  Here hills and waving groves a scene display
And part admit and part exclude the day
See rich industry smiling on the plains
And peace and plenty tell VICTORIA reigns!
Happy the MAN who to these shades retires
Whom NATURE charms and whom the muse inspires
Who wandering thoughtful in this silent wood
Attends the duties of the wise and good
To observe a mean, be to himself a friend
To follow NATURE and regard his end.

 
Continue your walk by passing to the left of the observatory through the wood. Follow the path which drops steeply to a signpost.
 
Turn right on the track signed "Oldstead". Follow the path as it curves left to become a metalled lane. Turn left at the T junction and left onto the road by a seat. Have a well earned pitstop!
 
Just before the road narrows sign turn left. Go through gateposts and over a cattle grid. Then as the avenue of trees ends, take a sharp turn right uphill at a signposted footpath. Climb up to a stile, bending to the left beside the woodland to a gate. After the next gate, keep ahead through two gates and onto a metalled road.
 
 
 Bull Sign on gate
 
Turn right, then, just beyond the road sign which indicates a bend, take a track to the left by the Oldstead Grange sign. Pass the house and go between barns and through a gateway. Bear right downhill on the track, bending right on a track to a gateway with a waymarked tree.
 
Straight after the gateway, turn left through the wood to a Byland Abbey signpost. Follow the path as it bends left by another sign, cross a stile, then the field with its hedge to the left, bending left then right at the end to a signpost. Go through an opening beside a metal gate and along the field with a hedge on your right.
 
Go over two stiles then bear slightly left to another stile. Go across the field to a signpost in the hedge by a metal gate. Follow the fence, then go onto the road by a wooden stile. Turn left back to the car park opposite the Abbey.
 
 


 

View of the Abbey from the road

 

 
Byland Abbey
 
It was founded as a Savigniac abbey in January 1135 and was absorbed by the Cistercian order in 1147. It wasn't an easy start for the community who had had to move five times before settling at New Byland, near Coxwold in 1177. Its early history was marked by disputes with no fewer than four other religious establishments: (Furness Abbey, Calder Abbey, Rievaulx Abbey and Newburgh Priory). However, once it had overcome this bad start, it was described in the late 14th century as "one of the three shining lights of the north". Its financial success was not as great as that of places like Rievaulx, but it was famed for its sheep rearing and wool exports. Its church was said to be among the finest 12th-century churches in Europe.
It was dissolved on 30 November 1538. In 1539, its site was granted to Sir William Pickering.
 


 
 
 
 

 

Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Richmond ~ Easy Walk




Distance Covered: 6 miles   Time to complete walk: 2h 20m

Safety Tips: Be prepared for a steep walk back into Richmond

An easy walk round Richmond which passes by Easby Abbey and ends up at the spectacular Richmond Castle - Richmond itself is steep but this walk avoids steep inclines until the very end. The walk can be completed in a few hours and extra time can be spent exploring the Abbey and Castle.

Getting There

From Middlesbrough and Stockton take the A66 to Darlington and then follow the A1 to Scotch Corner. Then look for the A1608 which will take you to Richmond town centre.

The Walk

 
Richmond Castle
 
 
Richmond Walk route
 
 
There's ample parking spaces at the Nuns Close car park which is situated past the cricket club as you follow the A1608 and turn right into Hurgill Road signposted as a long stay car park.
 
Leave the car park and turn right and then left to follow the road you just drove down until you reach the first roundabout. At the roundabout go straight ahead down Ryders Wynd.


 

Ryders Wynd

 

At the bottom of Ryders Wynd turn left then go right into Station Road. Just past the church take a left into Lombards Wynd.

 

 
Lombards Wynd
 
Turn right at the next junction and follow the track until you eventually pass the Drummer Boy Stone on your right.
 

                                          Drummer Boy Stone

At the end of the18th century, the story says, soldiers in Richmond Castle discovered a tunnel that was thought to lead to Easby Abbey. They sent their drummer boy down it, beating his drum so they could follow him from above ground. His route is beside the river towards the Abbey. At the spot now marked by the Drummer Boy Stone, the drumming stopped and he was never seen again.

Bear right after the gate, still parallel with the river, bearing right again to a gate, then alongside the Abbey in the village of Easby.


 
You can now see the full splendour of Easby Abbey to your left. You can make a detour here to explore the Abbey through the gate to your left.
 



 

 
Easby Abbey
 
In 1152 Roald, the Constable of Richmond Castle, granted land to a group of Premonstratensian canons to build an abbey on the banks of the River Swale, within sight of the soaring towers of his castle. Roald did not own the castle, but administered it on behalf of his patron, Conan, Earl of Richmond. But Roald was certainly a wealthy man, probably through marriage to Garsia, widow of Enisan Murdac, who held large estates around Richmond after the Norman Conquest.

The new abbey may not have been the first religious foundation at Easby; circumstantial evidence suggets that there was a community of priests here in the Saxon period, perhaps associated with a minster church. It is unusual that Roald chose to establish a Premonstratensian house, though.
 
Beyond the car park in the Abbey turn right along the track and follow the track with the wall to your left to Love Lane House.

 
 

                                                               Love Lane House

Turn right over the old railway bridge.

 
View from railway bridge
 
Follow the track bed for a while until you come to The Station. The Station is a leisure and shopping complex with its own bakery, cinema, some shops and a café. Ideal for a pitstop!.
 
 
The Station
 
Turn left up the road and then turn right into Priory Villas and bear right to go in front of the houses.
 
 
Priory Villas
 
Go through three waymarked gates keeping parallel to the river. you should have a great view of Richmond Castle to your left.
 

                                                           View of Richmond Castle

Continue passing some playing fields and a clubhouse. This will then bring you onto a road- turn left and go over Richmond Bridge. Then look for the Castle Hill turning to your left- this is very steep and will take you to the town square. From here you can then enter Richmond Castle and explore its remains.




 
Views from Richmond Castle

 After you have left Richmond Castle make your way back to the car park by leaving the main town square and ending up on Ryders Wynd and re trace your steps to the car park.

Richmond Castle

In 1069 William the Conqueror had put down a rebellion at York which was followed by his "harrying of the North" - an act of ethnic cleansing which depopulated large areas for a generation or more. As a further punishment, he divided up the lands of north Yorkshire among his most loyal followers. Alan Rufus, of Brittany, received the borough of Richmond and began constructing the castle to defend against further rebellions and to establish a personal power base. His holdings, called the Honour of Richmond, covered parts of eight counties and amounted to one of the most extensive Norman estates in England. The Dukes of Brittany became the owners of the castle as Earls of Richmond though it was often confiscated for various periods by English Kings.
A 100-foot (30 m)-high keep of honey-coloured sandstone was constructed at the end of the 12th century by Duke Conan IV of Brittany. The Earldom of Richmond was seized in 1158 by Henry II of England. It was King Henry II who probably completed the keep which had 11-foot (3.4 m)-thick walls. Modern visitors can climb to the top of the keep for magnificent views of the town of Richmond. At the same time that the keep was probably completed, Henry II considerably strengthened the castle by adding towers and a barbican. Henry III and King Edward I spent more money on the site including Edward's improvements to the keep interior.
In addition to the main circuit of the wall, there was the barbican in front of the main gate which functioned as a sealed entry space, allowing visitors and wagons to be checked before they gained entry to the castle itself. On the other side of the castle, overlooking the river, was another enclosure or bailey called the Cockpit, which may have functioned as a garden and was overlooked by a balcony. A drawing of 1674 suggests there was another longer balcony overlooking the river side of Scolland's Hall, the Great Hall.
 
 
Richmond Castle had fallen out of use as a fortress by the end of the 14th century and it did not receive major improvements after that date. A survey of 1538 shows it was partly in ruins, but paintings by Turner and others, together with the rise of tourism and an interest in antiquities, led to repairs to the keep in the early 19th century.
In 1855 the castle became the headquarters of the North Yorkshire Militia, and a military barracks block was constructed in the great courtyard. For two years, from 1908 to 1910, the castle was the home of Robert Baden-Powell, later founder of the Boy Scouts, while he commanded the Northern Territorial Army but the barracks building was demolished in 1931.
The castle was used during the First World War as the base of the Non-Combatant Corps made up of conscientious objectors - conscripts who refused to fight. It was also used to imprison some conscientious objectors who refused to accept army discipline and participate in the war in any way. These included the "Richmond Sixteen" who were taken to France from the castle, charged under Field Regulations, and then sentenced to death, but their death sentences were commuted to ten years' hard labour.
 
As presented today Richmond Castle has one of the finest examples of Norman buildings in Britain including Scollands Hall, the Great Hall of the castle. The keep has a restored roof and floors but is shown with the original 11th century main gate arch unblocked. This arch is now in the basement of the later 12th century keep which was built in front of it, the main gate then being moved to its present position which was dominated by the adjacent keep while the original arch we see today was filled-in to secure the keep.
The castle is a Scheduled Monument, a "nationally important" historic building and archaeological site which has been given protection against unauthorised change. It is also a Grade I listed building and therefore recognised as an internationally important structure. Today the castle is in the care of English Heritage which publishes a guidebook written by John Goodall PhD FSA. English Heritage provides a visitor centre for the castle with an informative exhibition containing artefacts form the castles history, they also hold regular events there throughout the year.
According to legend, King Arthur and his knights are sleeping in a cave underneath the castle. It is said that they were once discovered by a potter named Thompson, who ran away when they began to awake. Another legend tells that a drummer boy was lost while investigating an underground tunnel, and that his ghostly drumming is sometimes heard around the castle.

 
 
 
 
 



Monday, 6 April 2015

Ainthorpe to Danby Castle ~ Medium Walk




Distance Covered: 3.5 miles   Time to complete walk: 1h 45m

Safety Tips: Use your GPS if you feel you are off the path of the walk


This walk includes open moorland walking and fine views of the moors and passes the remains of Danby Castle and includes a detour to the Moors Centre in Danby - it roughly takes about two hours and is just over 3 miles long.

Getting There

From Middlesbrough go up Ormesby Bank and take the left turning at the roundabout onto Middlesbrough Road. Follow this road to Whitby on the A171 until you see the signposted right turning to Danby. Go through Danby either park in Danby or in Ainthorpe which is just past the Esk Valley railway line.



                           
                                                  Remains of Danby Castle

The Walk

 
Ainthorpe to Danby Castle walk route


After parking either in Ainthorpe or Danby take the road to the left signposted as Ainthorpe and climb to the top of this steep road.

 
Road signposted as Ainthorpe
 
 
Walkng up this road you soon come to the Fox and Hounds pub - stop for a pint before re-commencing your walk...
 
 
Fox and Hounds Inn
 
Follow the road uphill passing a tennis court. At the second signposted public footpath turn right and the walk joins the moor. Follow the moorland path over a stile until you come to a wooden makeshift bridge.




 
Makeshift bridge
 
Cross over the bridge onto the narrower moorland path which will take you to the crest of the moor. When you reach the crest there are some stunning views.
 

 
The path now makes its way steeply down onto the road below with a cattle grid to its left. Turn left and follow this road until you come to the remains of Danby castle. The castle is used for functions such as weddings now.
 


                                                   Remains of Danby castle

Passing the castle you will come to a road junction.

 
Junction in road

Turn right at the road junction and walk down to the river. You will then come across Duck Bridge which you can then cross if you wish to take a detour to the Moors Centre for refreshments.

 
Duck Bridge
 
If you want to take the detour to the Moors Centre cross the bridge and take the first left turning until you come to the Moors Centre, which has a café, open space events and activities and an interactive museum and gift shop.
 

 
The Moors Centre
 
If you don't wish to take the detour or after you have visited the Moors Centre take the left turn just after Duck Bridge before you crossed it and this road will take you back into Ainthorpe.
 
Danby Castle
 
Danby Castle was built to replace an earlier castle at Castleton. It is a quadrangular castle - essentially a rectangular building with a central courtyard and towers at each corner. This type of castle was quite common in the north of England at the end of the fourteenth century, and Danby Castle is normally dated to that period, or to the early years of the fifteenth century.
This fits well with a change of ownership at Castleton. For most of the fourteenth century it was owned by the Latimer family. However, in 1381 the last Latimer died without a male child. He did have a daughter, Elizabeth, who had married John Neville of Raby. They inherited the castle in 1381. Neville died seven years later, leaving Elizabeth in control of the estates until her death in 1396. The estate was then inherited by her son, another John. In 1396 he was only seventeen, so had to wait until he came of age in 1400 to gain control of his estates. John Neville was not his fathers oldest son - that honour went to Ralph Neville, some thirty years old than John, and Earl of Westmorland since 1397. To mark the establishment of his own family, John soon took the title of Lord Latimer. He was probably the builder of Danby Castle, although it is also possible that his father built it to provide a home for his new child, or that Elizabeth built it after the death of her husband, to provide herself with a more comfortable home than that provided by the older building at Castleton.
The most famous inhabitant of Danby Castle was Catherine Parr, Henry VIII's final wife, who survived him by one year. John Neville, third Baron Latimer (1493-1543) was her second husband. They married in 1534, two years before the Pilgrimage of Grace, a rebellion against Henry triggered by his attacks on the Catholic church. This rebellion caused Catherine and her family great problems. Late in 1536 the rebels seized John Neville at his main home of Snape Castle (south of Bedale) and forced him to join them (although Snape was their main residence, Dandy was an important estate centre, and would still have been used by the family). He was not an enthusiastic rebel. The rebels were soon convinced that he was about to betray them to the king, and returned to Snape, where they took Catherine and Neville's two children by an earlier marriage hostage. Neville was able to use his influence with the rebels to get his family released, but by now Henry was convinced that he was a traitor. Ironically, it was Catherine's family's influence with the king that saved Neville, just as his influence with the rebels had saved Catherine! Unsurprisingly, after this experience the family moved south, and Catherine rarely returned to the north. Neville died on 2 March 1543. Four months later, on 12 July, Catherine married Henry VIII.
Although the castle is ruined, quite a bit of it still survives. Three of the four towers still exist in some form - the two northern towers as ruins, the south-eastern as part of the modern farmhouse. The south wing also survives intact and contains the Court and Jury rooms for the Court Leet. This is a rare example of a manor court still in operation. Every October the court meets to administer the common rights on the Danby Estate.